Szeged through taste - Alabárdos Étterem

  Szeged through taste - Alabárdos Étterem

24-3-2024 Igor Kasiński

Recently I came back from a short excursion to Hungary. There I stayed in Szeged, the third-largest city in Hungary, known for its beautiful architecture and renowned 

university. In my opinion, the gem of the city is its cuisine. Places to eat there are ubiquitous - wherever you look, you will spot either a fancy restaurant or a cosy tavern serving local delicacies. Among all the dining spots, one stood out to me, and I want to share the experience with you. 

Alabárdos Étterem is a chain of Hungarian high-end restaurants that have been awarded numerous culinary accolades, including Michelin stars. The one in Szeged recently earned its first Michelin star, awarded by Manuel Fafian, a senior vice president of the Michelin Experience. Alabárdos serves both global cuisine and traditional Hungarian dishes with a modern twist. The menu offers meat and vegan options, featuring 14 main courses and 22 wine choices.

My first impression was that the restaurant had a warm and inviting atmosphere. Ambient lighting illuminated the space, the seats were quite comfortable, and the overall mood and design were both welcoming and sophisticated. The interior was minimalist and modern, yet cozy. What struck me the most was the fact that I was the second guest in the entire restaurant. Even though it was dinnertime and restaurants across the street were bustling, Alabárdos emptiness left me questioning whether the restaurant’s exclusivity was a hidden blessing or a red flag.

I was greeted and seated a minute after entering the building. The staff seemed friendly and welcoming, while maintaining a high level of professionalism, as expected in such establishments. The team consisted mainly of young employees who, despite their age, were highly knowledgeable - especially when it came to wine pairings. Their recommendations were spot-on. Unfortunately, it took quite a while before someone came to take my order. However, when they did, they were attentive and suggested just the perfect dishes for me. The same applied to the food—after placing my order, I waited about 20 minutes for my appetizers to arrive.

The meal began with a selection of miniature appetizers, which were both flavourful and enjoyable to eat. They were heavily inspired by molecular gastronomy, adding an element of playfulness to the experience. A few minutes later, my main course arrived. I had ordered duck breast with noodles, which was served at the perfect temperature, looking and smelling incredible. The duck was tender and perfectly seasoned, though not particularly unique—any high-end restaurant could prepare duck to this standard. The noodles, on the other hand, were an intriguing surprise. They were drenched in a sweet and sour sauce, garnished with a variety of nuts and sprouts. While they were delicious, I found them a bit too sweet for my taste.

I can confidently say that the food served was tasty and interesting to eat, the atmosphere was pleasant and the staff were both knowledgeable and kind. The thing that bothered me was that practically no one was present, this destroyed the vibe. It felt like the restaurant was haunted, some may like this, extra peace, and all staff will direct attention to you, however, it didn’t appeal to me. Now, let’s talk about the prices, which are also an important factor. Compared to other restaurants in Szeged, Alabárdos was approximately 20% to 30% more expensive. However, given that dining out in the city is generally affordable, the prices were still reasonable. In my opinion, the food quality at Alabárdos is comparable to that of restaurants like Rudi és Fickó or Monster DownTown.

Overall, Alabárdos Étterem offers a really interesting dining experience. The food is definitely top-notch. If you ever find yourself in Szeged, this place is a must-visit. I would rate the restaurant 9 out of 10.